Critical, Major and Minor Defects in Apparel: How to Classify Them

Short answer: In apparel, defects fall into three categories. A critical defect puts the wearer at risk or makes the garment unsellable, and its tolerance is zero. A major defect is one the end customer notices and will probably return the garment for. A minor defect is an imperfection that doesn't affect use or sale. This classification is the basis of AQL inspection, and it should be agreed between brand and manufacturer before production, using the approved sample as the reference.

When a brand receives production and finds a problem, the first argument is almost always the same: is this serious or not? An untrimmed thread and an open seam are both defects, but they have nothing in common. Without an agreed classification, each side uses its own yardstick and the conversation gets personal.

Critical defects

These can harm the wearer or make the garment impossible to sell. In practice tolerance is zero: a single critical defect in the inspected sample is grounds to reject the lot.

• - A needle, pin or metal fragment inside the garment.
• - A sharp edge or a trim with a cutting edge.
• - Poorly attached small parts on children's garments that can come off.
• - Missing or wrong content or care label, where the law requires it.

Major defects

These are noticed by the end customer, who will probably return the garment or not buy it. They don't put anyone at risk, but they clearly affect function or appearance.

• - Seams: open, skipped or seams that come apart when stretched; stitching that bursts in a stress area.
• - Measurements: a measurement outside the tech pack tolerance; a size that doesn't match its label.
• - Fabric: visible stains, holes, runs, shade differences between pieces of the same garment.
• - Symmetry: sleeves or legs of different lengths, misaligned pockets, a crooked print.
• - Function: a zipper that won't close, a snap or button that doesn't fasten, elastic without recovery.

Minor defects

Imperfections that don't affect use or the purchase decision, especially in areas that aren't visible.

• - Untrimmed threads.
• - Slightly irregular stitching on an internal seam.
• - Small chalk or pressing marks that come off easily.
• - A slightly off backtack in a hidden area.

The same flaw can change category

Classification depends on where the defect is and what type of garment it is. An irregular stitch on an internal seam is minor; the same stitch on the visible topstitching on the front of a swimsuit is major. A slight shade difference is minor on an internal piece and major on two pieces that sit side by side.

That's why a generic list copied from the internet doesn't work: classification has to be done for your garment type and product level.

Why it's agreed before production

Classifying defects after receiving production is a fight. Classifying them before is work. What's worth putting in writing before confirming:

• The approved sample and its tech pack as the reference standard.
• Measurement tolerances per point of measure in the tech pack.
• What counts as critical, major and minor for each style.
• The AQL level for each category.
• What happens to garments that don't pass.

How we do it at The Full Package

At The Full Package S.A.S the reference is always the sample the brand approved. Every sample is checked against thirteen points —client requirements, measurements, proportions, seams, elements, fabric, fabric behavior, stitching, finishes, symmetry, labels and appearance— and needs both the quality and the pattern maker's sign-off to pass. During production there's inspection at every station, and what doesn't comply is set aside and logged by order and size.

Conclusion

A badly classified defect causes as much trouble as the defect itself. If brand and manufacturer agree in advance on what's critical, major and minor, inspection stops being an argument and becomes a rule.

Want to review what the classification would look like for your garments? Write to commercial@thefullpackage.com.co or WhatsApp +57 311 546 2347.